textile-dictionary-glossary

R

Rayon
Rayon is a transparent fibre made of processed cellulose. Cellulose fibres from wood or cotton are dissolved in alkali to make a solution called viscose, which is then extruded through a nozzle, or spinneret, into an acid bath to reconvert the viscose into cellulose. A similar process, using a slit instead of a hole, is used to make cellophane.
Rib knit
Rib knit
Rib weave
Rib weave
Rolag
A rolag is a loose woolen roll of fibers that results from using handcards.
Roving
A roving is a long rope of fibers where all of the fibers are going parallel to the roving.
Rug
A rug is a form of carpet. It is usually smaller than a carpet. See also: rug making

S

Sailcloth
Sailcloth
Sateen
Sateen is a fabric formed with a satin weave where the floats are perpendicular to the selvage of the goods.
Satin
A Satin is a cloth that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. It is formed by a sequence of broken twill floats in either the warp or weft system, which respectively identify the goods as either a satin or a sateen.
Satin weave
A satin is a broken twill weaving technique that forms floats on one side of the fabric. If a satin is woven with the floats parallel to the selvedge of the goods, the corresponding fabric is termed a "satin." If the floats are perpendicular to the selvedge of the goods, the fabric is termed a 'sateen.'"
Seam
A seam, in sewing, is the line where two pieces of fabric are held together by thread.
Seam ripper
A seam ripper is a small tool used for unpicking stitches.
Selvage or Selvedge
The woven edge portion of a fabric parallel to the warp is called selvage.
Serge
Serge is a type of twill fabric that has diagonal lines or ridges on both sides, made with a two-up, two-down weave. The worsted variety is used in making military uniforms, suits, great and trench coats. Its counterpart, silk serge, is used for linings. French serge is a softer, finer variety. The word is also used for a high quality woolen woven.
Serging
Serging is a sewing term, the binding off of an edge of cloth.
Sewing
Though some older machines use a chain stitch, the basic stitch of a modern sewing machine consists of two threads and is known as lockstitch. Industrial machines are usually specialized for a specific task, and so different machines may produce a different type of stitch. Modern sewing machines are designed in such a way that the fabric easily glides in and out of the machine without the hassle of needles and thimbles and other such tools used in hand sewing, automating the process of stitching and saving time.The fabric shifting mechanism may be a workguide or may be pattern-controlled (e.g., jacquard type). Some machines can create embroidery-type stitches. Some have a work holder frame. Some have a workfeeder that can move along a curved path, while others have a workfeeder with a work clamp. Needle guards, safety devices to prevent accidental needle-stick injuries, are often found on modern sewing machines.Needle plate, foot and transporter of a sewing machine.Singer sewing machine The main stitch of most older sewing machines, chain stitch, has one major drawback – it is very weak and the stitch can easily be pulled apart.[2] When the machines started being used, people realized a stitch more suited to machine production was needed, and it was found in the lock stitch. A lock stitch is created by two separate threads interlocking through the two layers of fabric, resulting in a sturdier stitch that looks the same from both sides of the fabric
Shag
Shag (fabric) is typically used to make a deep-pile carpets. This is the oldest use of the term. Shag carpet is sometimes evoked as an example of the aesthetic from the culture of the U.S. 1970s. Also used to make carpets for mariners.
Shed
In weaving, the shed is the gap between yarns on a loom when one or more, but not all, of the harnesses are raised.
Sheer
Sheer is a semi-transparent and flimsy cloth.
Shoddy
Recycled or remanufactured wool which is of inferior quality compared to the original wool. Historically generated from loosely woven materials. Benjamin Law invented shoddy and mungo, as such, in 1813. He was the first to organise, on a larger scale, the activity of taking old clothes and grinding them down into a fibrous state that could be re-spun into yarn. The shoddy industry was centred on the towns of Batley, Morley, Dewsbury and Ossett in West Yorkshire, and concentrated on the recovery of wool from rags. The importance of the industry can be gauged by the fact that even in 1860 the town of Batley was producing over 7000 tonnes of shoddy. At the time there were 80 firms employing a total of 550 people sorting the rags. These were then sold to shoddy manufacturers of which there were about 130 in the West Riding.
Shot
The opal effect achieved on a fabric by dyeing the warp and weft threads different colours. The yarns are dyed first and then woven. When looking at the fabric from various angles it appears to alter in colour, this is more obvious in lustrous fabrics and more so in certain types of weaves.
Shuttle
A shuttle in weaving is a device used with a loom that is thrown or passed back and forth between the threads of the warp to weave in the weft.
Silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber that can be woven into textiles. It is obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm larva, in the process known as sericulture, which kills the larvae. The shimmering appearance for which it is prized comes from the fibres triangular prism-like structure, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles.
Sisal
Sisal or sisal hemp is an agave Agave sisalana that yields a stiff fiber used in making rope. (The term may refer either to the plant or the fiber, depending on context.) It is not really a variety of hemp, but named so because hemp was for centuries a major source for fiber, so other fibers were sometimes named after it.
Skein
Skein is when a length of yarn is bundled in a loose roll rather than put on a cone (as you would purchase from store)- usually done if yarn is going to a dye vat or needs a treatment in a manufacturing/knitting mill environment.
Solution-dyed
Solution-dyed
Spandex fiber
Spandex or elastane is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity (stretchability). It is stronger and more durable than rubber, its major plant competitor. It was invented in 1959 by DuPont, and when first introduced it revolutionized many areas of the clothing industry.
Spinning
Spinning is the process of creating yarn (or thread, rope, cable) from various raw fiber materials.
Spread Tow Fabrics
Spread Tow Fabrics is a type of lightweight fabric. Its production involves the steps of spreading a tow of higher count, e.g. 12k, into thin-and-wide spread tow tape (STT) and weaving them into a lightweight fabric by employing the novel tape-weaving technique.
Staple
Staple is the raw material, or its length and quality, of fiber from which textiles are made.
Stuff
Stuff is a coarse cloth, sometimes made with a linen warp and worsted weft.
Super
The Super grading system is used to grade the quality of wool fabric. The higher the number, the more yarn is packed in per square inch, therefore all things being equal a super 120s yarn is better than super 100s.

T

Tablet weaving
Tablet weaving is a process of weaving where tablets, also called 'cards', are used to create the shed that the weft is passed through. It is generally used to make narrow work such as belts or straps.
Tactel
Tactel is the brand name of a man-made fibre made from nylon.
Taffeta
Taffeta is a type of fabric, often used for fancy dresses.
Tapestry
Tapestry is a form of textile art. It is woven by hand on a weaving-loom. The chain thread is the carrier in which the coloured striking thread is woven. In this way, a colourful pattern or image is created. Most weavers use a naturally based chain thread made out of linen or wool. The striking threads can be made out of silk, wool, gold or silver, but can also be made out of any form of textile.
Tarlatan
Tarlatan is a starched, open-weave fabric, much like cheese cloth. It is used to wipe the ink off a plate during the intaglio inking process. The open weave allows for the tarlatan to pick up a large quantity of ink. The stiffness imparted by the starch helps prevent the fabric from taking the ink out of the incised lines.
Tassel
A tassel is a ball-shaped bunch of plaited or otherwise entangled threads from which at one end protrudes a cord on which the tassel is hung, and which may have loose, dangling threads at the other end.
Tatting
Tatting is a technique for handcrafting lace that can be documented approximately to the early 19th century.
Tearing
Textile materials vary in their susceptibility to tearing. Some materials may be quite resistant to tearing when they are in their full form, but when a small cut or tear is made, the material becomes compromised, and the effort needed to continue tearing along that line becomes less.

Terry cloth
Terry cloth is a type of cloth with loops sticking out. Most bath towels are examples of Terry cloth.
Thimble
A thimble is a protective shield worn on the finger or thumb.
Threads per inch (TPI)
Threads per inch is the measurement of the number of threads per inch of material, such as fabric, or metal in the case of screws and bolts.
Thread count
The thread count is the number of warp threads per inch plus the number of weft threads.
Tissue
Tissue is a fine woven fabric or gauze.
Trim
Trim or trimming in clothing and home decorating is applied ornament such as gimp, passementerie, ribbon, ruffles, or, as a verb, to apply such ornament.
Tulle
Tulle is a netting, which is often starched, made of various fibers, including silk, nylon, and rayon, that is most commonly used for veils, gowns (particularly wedding gowns) and ballet tutus.
Tweed
Tweed is a type of fabric using the twill weave.
Twill tape
Twill tape is a flat twill-woven ribbon of cotton, linen, polyester, or wool.
Twill weave
Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. It is made by passing the weft threads over one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads. Examples of twill fabric are gabardine, tweed and serge.

U

V

Velour
Velour is a textile, a knitted counterpart of velvet.
It combines the stretchy properties of knits such as spandex with the rich appearance and feel of velvet.
Velvet
Velvet is a type of tufted fabric in which the cut threads are very evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it its distinct feel. Velvet can be made from any fiber. It is woven on a special loom that weaves two piece of velvet at the same time. The two pieces are then cut apart and the two lengths of fabric are wound on separate take-up rolls.
Velveteen
Velveteen is a cotton cloth made in imitation of velvet. The term is sometimes applied to a mixture of silk and cotton. Some velveteens are a kind of fustian, having a rib of velvet pile alternating with a plain depression. The velveteen, trade varies a good deal with the fashions that control the production of velvet.
Viscose
Viscose is an artificial cellulose-based polymer, sometimes used as a synonym for Rayon

W

Warp
The warp is the set of lengthwise threads attached to a loom before weaving begins, and through which the weft is woven.
Warp knit
Knit fabric in which intermeshing loops are positioned in a lengthwise, or warp, direction. The fabric has a flatter, closer, less elastic structure than most weft knits and is run-resistant.
Waterproof
Waterproof
Water repellent
Water repellent
Weaving
Weaving is an ancient textile art and craft that involves placing two sets of threads or yarn made of fibre called the warp and weft of the loom and turning them into cloth. This cloth can be plain (in one color or a simple pattern), or it can be woven in decorative or artistic designs, including tapestries.
Weft
The weft is the yarn that is woven back and forth through the warp to make cloth.
Weft knit
Weft knit
Wilton Carpet
Wilton carpet is produced on a specific type of weaving machine called wire loom. Wilton carpets are pile carpets whereby the pile is formed by inserting steel rods in the pile warps of the fabric. After extraction of the rods the pile is looped (in case straight wires have been used) or cut (in case cutting wires are used). Wilton carpet is generally considered as high quality and is used for heavy duty applications.
Wire loom
Weaving machine for pile fabrics or velvets whereby the pile is made by weaving steel rods or wires into the fabrics. When the wires are extracted the warp ends that have been woven over the wires remain as loops on top of the fabric or will form cut pile if the wire is equipped with a cutting blade. This technique is also known as "épinglé weaving". A wire loom in a much wider version (up to 5 meters of width) and in heavier construction is used for the manufacturing of carpets is called a "WILTON" loom, and the carpets made on such a loom are known as "Wilton Carpets"
Woof
The woof is the same thing as the weft.
Wool
           The term wool is usually restricted to describing the fibrous protein derived from the
           specialized skin cells called follicles in sheep.
          Wool is taken from animals in the Caprinae family, principally sheep, but the hair of certain  
          species of other mammals is also sometimes called "wool", including cashmere from goats,
           mohair from goats, vicuña, alpaca, and camel from animals in the camel family, and         
           angora from rabbits.
           Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair or fur: it is crimped, it has a different
           texture or handle, it is elastic, and it grows in staples (clusters)
Woolen
Woolen is the name of a yarn and cloth usually made from wool.
Worsted fabric
Worsted is the name of a yarn and cloth usually made from wool. The yarn is well twisted and spun of long staple wool (though nowadays also medium and short fibres are used). The wool is combed so that the fibres lie parallel.
Woven fabric
A woven fabric is a cloth formed by weaving. It only stretches in the bias directions (between the warp and weft directions), unless the threads are elastic. Woven cloth usually frays at the edges, unless measures are taken to counter this, such as the use of pinking shears or hemming.
X

Y

Yarn
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving and ropemaking. Yarn can be made from any number of synthetic or natural fibers.

Z

Zibeline
Zibeline is a thick, soft fabric with a long nap.

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